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Crack Prevention

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Wood oboes slowly expand and contract constantly throughout the year. For most of the year, the changes our oboes go through are so small we hardly ever notice. When there is a sudden change in weather; i.e. temperature, the oboe can’t keep up with its normal slow changes which results in major regulation issues and even cracking. It is up to us to give our oboe the utmost care during these most critical times of the year. Below are a few points which can be followed to help prevent your oboe from cracking.

• When the weather turns cold do not play your oboe if it feels cool to the touch. Your oboe needs to warm up from the outside to the inside. This means, do not blow through your oboe to warm it up, but hold it in your hands or put it under your arm. When the oboe feels like it is back up to room temperature then it is safe to start playing it.

• It is critical that the upper joint be warmed up all the way through the wood. Doing this will warm up the metal octave vents and drastically reduce the chance of moisture forming in the octave vents. There is no true way to avoid getting moisture stuck in your tone holes, but this step will help.

• After your oboe is up to room temperature, I suggest warming up by playing 5-note groups in the lower register of your oboe not going above a 2nd line G for the first couple minutes. This will allow the instrument to completely finish warming up before the left hand tone holes are opened, which will hopefully help reduce the chance of condensation forming in those tone holes.

• Moisture- Your wooden oboe was once a tree which had natural moisture such as tree sap and water. Once the tree is cut down and machined into a musical instrument we have to maintain a certain amount of moisture in order for the wood to not dry out. There are many different thoughts on how moisture should be “applied.” We believe you should oil your oboe. You should oil your oboe 2-3 times a year, or have your professional repair technician do this for you. If you are buying a brand new oboe, oiling once a week for a couple months would be wise. You never know how long a new oboe has been setting around and in what conditions it has been setting. For more information about oiling, search onksws.com for oiling procedures.

• Humidifiers- I always keep a humidifier in my oboe case. Your oboe spends most of its time in the case, so I like to have the environment inside the case to be as stable as possible. Now, I have no proof that the humidifier actually does anything, but it definitely doesn’t hurt. And as cheap as humidifiers are, why wouldn’t you do this step if there is a possibility it will help prevent cracking!

• After you have finished playing your oboe and are putting it away in its case, you have to remove all excess water, spit, and condensation from the oboe. This step is essential to help prevent cracks form in your oboe. First, feather or swab out your oboe to remove any visible condensation from the bore of the oboe. Second, on the upper joint, use cigarette paper to check for moisture in the closed keys. Do not leave any spit in the tone holes of the closed keys, doing so will result in the wood expanding too quickly which leads to cracking. If the cigarette paper is wet continue this process until all moisture is gone. Third, prop open your trill keys before closing up your case. This will insure that any lingering condensation in the trill tone holes will fall out or evaporate. To prop the trills open, I use the cardboard protective wrapping from a razor blade. It is a perfect thickness to slip down in between the trill levers and the trill keys. Just remember to pull the material out of the trills before you re-assemble the oboe.

• Please don’t hesitate to contact us if you have any questions or concerns regarding these issues.

 

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Oboe Oiling Procedure

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Two items are needed to oil the bore of your oboe.
1. Bore oil. (Do not use a petroleum based oil.)
2. Turkey Feather. I use real tail turkey feathers, usually about 14-16 inches long.

 

Hold the upper joint of the oboe in one hand with the keys facing up. DO NOT put oil in the bore of an oboe with the keys facing down, because the oil will go straight into the tone holes. Put 4-5 drops of bore oil into the bore at the center tenon. Place the feather in the bore and slide the feather back and forth to distribute the oil evenly throughout the inside of the bore. Pull the feather out and sight down the bore to see if the oil is distributed evenly or if you need more oil. If you are using a brand new feather you may need to repeat this step because the feather will soak up most of the oil the first time through. Once the inside bore is nicely coated you must also oil the outside. To oil the outside, use the residual oil from the feather by rubbing the feather on the outside of the wood. Since the feather is so small on the very end, you can very carefully rub the feather under the keys and around the pads to get as much of the outside covered as possible. When an oboe is correctly oiled it should look like there is an even, thin layer of oil. There should not be oil running off the oboe or standing inside the bore. Use this same procedure for the lower joint and the bell. I suggest oiling your oboe at night after you have finished playing for the day. Once the oil has been applied, lay the oboe out on your desk or other sturdy surface. Do not place the oboe back in its case at this point. The next morning if the oil is gone, then your oboe needed it and it would be safe to do the oiling procedure again soon. If the oil is still on the oboe the next morning, then your oboe didn’t need the oil and you could wait a couple months until applying oil again. With a paper towel lightly wipe away excess oil from body and swab the inside bore. I also take cigarette papers and place them under all the pads to remove any oil that is on the pads and tone holes. Oil attracts dust so it is best to clean all excess oil from the body and pads.

Click here to see Jason demonstrate this oiling procedure.

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Cold Weather Warning!

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During the winter months, your oboe/clarinet will get cold. Do not play it right away!! Your instrument needs to warm up from the outside of the wood to the inside bore, so no blowing through the instrument to warm it up. Plan on needing a few extra minutes to warm up your instrument by holding it in your hands or placing it under your arm while you prepare your reeds and music. The warmer the instrument is, the less chance you will have of cracking and less condensation build up inside your instrument. If you need to ship your instrument during the winter months don’t worry, time is your friend. When you receive your instrument from the cold delivery truck, let the box set out for several hours before opening. Then open the box and let your case set out for several hours before opening. Good things come to those who wait.

 

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Oboe Maintenance

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There are many factors that go into maintaining your oboe. The following list of maintenance items are some of the standard things that should be done and NOT done to your oboe. There are many other things that could be listed here, but to remain on the outer boundaries of chaos I am only listing the basics. Trying to learn all of this as a young oboist can be very overwhelming, so please remember if you are unsure of a maintenance issue ask someone’s advice before trying to save the world!

• While assembling and disassembling your oboe, do not place your hands around the keys squeezing them while you shove the joints together. Doing this can bend keys and mechanisms as well as make deeper tone hole impressions in the pads which lead to leaking pads.

• Temperature- Keep your oboe out of the extreme heat and cold. Your oboe should be room temperature when you attempt to play it. This is especially important in the winter time. When it is cold out and you are traveling with your oboe, make sure you warm up your oboe from the outside to the inside. This means place it under your arm; hold it in your hands, etc. Do not blow through your oboe to warm it up. Only blow into your oboe by playing it after it has warmed up to room temperature.

• It is critical that the upper joint be warmed up all the way through the wood. Doing this will warm up the metal octave pips and drastically reduce the chance of moisture forming in the octave keys. There is no true way to avoid getting moisture stuck in your tone holes, but this step will help.

• If your oboe is not being played, it should be in its case. Never leave your oboe sitting in a chair during a break, or set it on a music stand. Either take it with you or put it in its case. If you do need to lay your oboe down, lay it on a sturdy surface like a table where it will not be sat on or crushed in any way. When you do lay your oboe down, place it in a way so it does not rest on its low Bb lever. This lever is extremely flimsy and can be easily bent out of adjustment.

• Only you and your private teacher should handle and play your oboe. Letting your friend play your oboe could lead you straight to the repair shop.

• After playing your oboe, it must be swabbed or feathered out. This must be done on plastic and wood oboes to prevent spit build up and any smells that form from old spit. Wooden oboes must be swabbed or feathered to stay clean, but also to help prevent cracking. You also need to make sure there is no moisture stuck in any tone holes. Any moisture that is held in a tone hole for long periods of time will cause the wood to expand and possibly crack. To help remove the moisture build up in any tone hole, place cigarette paper between the pad and tone hole and the water/spit will soak the cigarette paper. Repeat until the cigarette paper remains dry. Another technique that I feel will help remove leftover moisture from the trill tone holes is to prop the trill keys open while the oboe is not in use. This will allow the moisture in the trill tone holes to fall out or evaporate, thus one more step towards crack prevention.

• When you have water build up in your tone holes, do not blow the water back into the tone holes. Either use the technique listed above with the cigarette paper, or suck the water out. Blowing the water forces it back into the bore which is what we are trying to avoid. • If you use a swab versus the feather, only use silk swabs. Cotton swabs produce too much lint, which collects in the tone holes as you pull it through, which in turn attracts water and dust. It is also preferable to use a silk swab with a string on both ends. Using this type of silk swab will allow you to easily remove the swab if it were to get stuck in the oboe.

• For wooden oboes, it may be necessary to place some type of humidifier in the oboe case during the winter months. The heat from heaters in the winter time causes the humidity level to drop, which is not good for your oboe over a long period of time. Personally, I keep a humidifier in my case year round just to make sure my oboe is in a stable environment while it is not being played.

• Oiling the mechanism of your oboe is needed a couple times a year, but please have someone do it with the correct oiler. The key oil dispensers that are readily available at your local music store are no good because they dispense too much oil at one time. The best thing to use is a needle oiler which will apply the oil exactly where it is needed.

• Eating and drinking- If you must eat or drink something sugary before you play your oboe, please at least wash out your mouth. The best thing to do is carry an extra toothbrush and toothpaste in your oboe bag so you can brush your teeth before playing. Following this step will help prolong the life of your oboe, its pads, mechanism, and your teeth!

• Turning Screws- You should only turn the screws on your oboe if you have truly learned how to adjust it. If you feel there is an adjustment that needs to be done, do it in the company of your private teacher or someone else that has the needed experience.

• You should take your oboe to a reputable oboe repairman at least once a year. Even if you feel your oboe is in good playing condition, there is always something small that can be repaired. Fixing several small problems is much quicker and cheaper than fixing one large problem, in general. Preventative maintenance is the key to a long happy life with your oboe!

Other Helpful tips:

• If your oboe ever cracks do not play it any longer. Place the oboe in its case with an orange peel to help prevent the crack from spreading. Call your favorite oboe repair person right away for further instruction.

• To help prolong the life of your tenon corks, use a non-petroleum based cork grease. Look for synthetic cork grease or my favorite, mink oil. Mink oil is found anywhere shoe care products are sold.

• If a tenon cork falls off or is loose, you can temporarily tighten up that joint by wrapping teflon tape around the cork area. Teflon tape only sticks to itself, is very thin, and easy to apply and remove. Do not use duct tape, electrical tape or any other sticky material.

 

If you would like to download this information in a printable version, click here.