Post 63: Why your oboe is more resistant and resonate after repair.

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Over the years, we have had many clients comment that their oboe is now much more resistant and/or resonate than when they sent it into the shop for repair.  Some of these clients comment how different their oboes are after repair and are unsure if they like the change, but most clients are very happy with the outcome.  When your oboe is in pristine mechanical condition, the oboe should be really easy to play in all registers, but because it is fully resonate, it will also be fully and naturally resistant which will give you “the good something” to blow against.  Let’s take a look at why this is and what it means to the team at Onks Woodwind.

When it comes to the word resistant, there is a positive and a negative connotation with regard to wind musical instruments.  The negative connotation would revolve around the idea that your oboe is resistant to being played, i.e., is not responsive and hard to play.  For oboes, this happens over time with normal wear and tear as pads get deep indentions and leak, as keys get loose on the rods/pivot screws, and as adjustment and bumper corks deteriorate.  This would also mean since it is not responding well, that the oboe is not fully resonate.  A fully resonate oboe is one that has a solid column of air that is vibrating through the whole length of the oboe to produce a big, full sound.

The positive connotation comes into play, pun intended, when the oboe is in pristine condition and plays effortlessly from top to bottom.  When you have a cone that is sealed from top to bottom it will be fully and naturally resistant as the air column pushes down the cone.  There are several analogies to describe resistance, but for now let’s take a wire mesh strainer from your kitchen.  If you place the strainer up to your mouth and blow, there is no resistance because all of the air goes right through the holes of the wire strainer.  If you take the same strainer and add a layer of plastic wrap and perform the same trick, it is now very resistant due to the plastic wrap sealing all of the holes of the wire strainer.  In a similar way, when you have your oboe fully serviced at Onks Woodwind, we are removing all leaks by surfacing/leveling all pads, solidifying the mechanism so the pads are consistent and renewing old corks.  Once this process is completed, your oboe goes from leaking like a strainer to being airtight, thus allowing the instrument to be fully and naturally resistant.  The oboe at this point is also fully resonate as the air column can fully vibrate through the whole length of the instrument.

For some oboists, this change in resistance can change many aspects about their oboe and their oboe playing.  When we play our oboes, day in and day out for months and then years, the oboe mechanism changes very slowly over that time period.  These changes include items listed above, leaky pads, loose mechanism causing keys to not be consistent and adjustment corks deteriorating causing adjustments to not be consistent.  There is one more major issue that happens slowly over time as you play your oboe, and that is residue build-up.  Every time we play our oboe the moisture that fills the bore and tone holes collects tiny dust/dirt particles.  We can also introduce foreign matter directly from our mouths, but the biggest catch twenty-two is the swab/feather that we so greatly need to use.  These swabs/feathers also bring small dust, dirt, lint particles into the bore and tone holes of our oboe every time we use them, so even though swabbing is essential, there is a negative by-product from that process.  All of this foreign matter, dust/dirt, and lint particles slowly build up coating the bore and tone holes of your oboe which will cause tuning issues over a long period of time.

Between tuning issues, leaky pads and loose mechanisms, the oboe that you originally bought for its amazing sound and feel, is now an oboe that has tuning inaccuracies (not resonant) and is hard to play in the low register (no resistance.)  For those more advanced and/or professional oboists, they will be able to play through the issues or subconsciously accommodate for these issues by changing the way they play and/or make reeds.  Because of their proficiency, when they receive their oboe back from Onks Woodwind after a full cleaning, the oboe can and does feel drastically different.

Here at Onks Woodwind, we don’t do magical bore or tone hole work, but we do take care of all the small details that make or break an oboe.  Your oboe, when in its peak condition, will be as fully resistant and resonate as it naturally can be from the materials it is made from.  As we have told many clients, we don’t do anything magical, we just allow the oboe to play to its real, full potential.

Post 62: How to Insure Your Instrument

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Purchasing shipping insurance from your local shipping center is extremely expensive.  For the cost of insuring your instrument once through a shipping center, you could pay for an entire year’s premium through a legitimate insurance company.  Insurance is important for many reasons, one of which is to be covered when you ship your instrument to the repair shop in case of irreparable damage or loss.

There are two main ways to insure your instrument:

  1. Insure via your homeowners or renters policy.  Ask your insurance agent for an “inland marine rider,” with the coverage being “all-risk without deductible.”   This “all risk” policy will cover your instrument for almost anything, including while your instrument is in transit.
  2. Insure via a specialized musical instrument insurance company.  We have listed three companies below for your convenience, however, there may be others.
    1. Music Pro Insurance
    2. Heritage Insurance Services
    3. Clarion Associates

More than likely, these insurance companies will require you to obtain an appraisal.  We recommend contacting a company that specializes in sales of the instrument you wish to insure.  Some companies will appraise without seeing your instrument in person.  We have listed four companies below for your convenience, however, there are most definitely others.

  1. Hannah’s Oboes (Oboes and English horns only)
  2. RDG (Oboes, EH’s, Bassoons and Clarinets)
  3. Forrests Music (Oboes, EH’s and Bassoons)
  4. Midwest Musical Imports (Oboes, EH’s, Bassoons, Clarinets and Saxophones)

Just like insuring your car, house, or jewelry, insuring your instrument is essential.  The process could take several days, so start now so you’ll be covered when you need to ship your instrument to your favorite repair shop.

Onks Woodwind Specialists’s insurance policy will cover your instrument for the return shipment after repairs have been completed.

If you would like to download this information in a printable version, click here.

*Onks Woodwind does not appraise instruments as we do not sell instruments and do not keep up with current market rates.

Post 61: Octave vent removal holes must be sealed too…

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In previous posts, we have shared with you how to remove, clean and re-install your octave vents.  We have showed you how to seal your octave vents and we’ve talked about if you should seal your octave vents.  We even have an article describing reasons why you may be getting water in your octave vents.

As a quick summary, in case you have not read our previous octave vent articles, WE DO recommend that you seal your octave vents.  Normally when you seal octave vents you would seal the outside circumference of the vent, sealing the space between the vent and the oboe body.  BUT recently, we serviced an oboe where the octave vent removal holes were drilled all the way through the vent, which adds more places to leak!

Most people will never have a situation like this because normally octave vent removal holes are NOT drilled all the way through.  But just in case your octave vent removal holes are drilled through, you will need to pay special attention to not only sealing the circumference of the vent, but the removal holes as well.  Sealing the removal holes is not difficult, but it does take a little extra time and attention.

Photo number 1 below is an example of a “normal” octave vent where the removal holes have not been drilled all the way through.  In this instance, the removal holes are drilled just deep enough to allow the removal tool to grab and turn the vent.  Since the removal holes are not drilled all the way through, the holes themselves are sealed and will not cause any issues when you seal the vents under normal circumstances.

Photo number 2 is a pic of the troublesome vents in question.  If you compare pictures 1 and 2, you will notice that you can see the background blue cloth through the vent removal holes in picture 2, but not picture 1.  If octave vent removal holes are drilled through, when you re-install these vents and seal the outside circumference, the vents will still leak through the unsealed removal holes.

Photo number 3 is a pic of the troublesome vent re-installed before sealing.  If you look closely through the vent removal hole, you will see the octave well underneath which is installed into the body of the oboe.  With the octave well exposed through the octave vents, you are almost always guaranteed to have leakage.  The leakage comes from and through the threads of the octave well and the octave vent.  (Note: To see pictures of an octave vent and octave well separately, view our article “Should you seal octave vents.”)

To conclude this article, photo number 4 is a pic of the troublesome vent re-installed and sealed completely.  We seal octave vents with regular ole paraffin wax and in this pic you will notice the octave vent removal holes are filled with the wax as well as the outside circumference.  Being diligent about sealing the vent removal holes and the outside circumference will guarantee an airtight seal between the metal vent pieces and between the vent and the oboe body.  After sealing the vents properly, all you have to worry about is having every pad on your oboe perfectly level and sealing. 🙂

We hope this article has helped you understand octave vent sealing a little better, especially with regard to octave vent removal holes.  Most of you will never need to worry about this issue, but if you do, you are now equipped to deal with it properly.  The team at Onks Woodwind are always here to assist whether you need help sealing your octave vents or if you have a general oboe question.  Contact us today!

Post 60: Can the weighted end of your oboe swab damage your oboe?

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One of our clients recently asked, “Do you think non-pull through swabs have a higher chance of the metal-weighted piece scratching the inside of an oboe on its way back out, or is it not something to be too concerned about as long as you’re careful?”

In general, we feel that the metal-weighted ends of swabs are very safe and will not damage your oboe if you take care and use slow smooth movements. However if you are in a rush, the weighted end of the swab can potentially damage your oboe.

In the video below, we demonstrate ways to safely swab and show how the swab could potentially damage the oboe.

 

Don’t hesitate to contact us for all your oboe repair needs!

Post 59: High Acidic Skin Levels And Your Oboe

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We get asked all the time about keeping oboes clean and shiny. A lot of the “cleaning” aspects revolve around dust, reed shavings and potential food particles that can make their way into and onto the oboe. All of these aspects can easily be addressed by having an annual cleaning at Onks Woodwind.  See our annual cleaning post here.

There is another aspect to keeping your oboe clean that is sometimes very difficult to keep under control and that is tarnish! Tarnish is a chemical reaction between a metal and nonmetal compound. When talking about oboes, the main compounds involved are typically the plated metal on keys and posts, oxygen and moisture. With these basic, most common compounds, normally it isn’t too difficult to keep your oboe clean and shiny. Simply having a plain, non-abrasive cloth to occasionally wipe down the oboe keys should do the trick. (Note: You can also use an actual silver polish cloth, but it’s not 100% necessary.)

Occasionally, we have clients that have severe tarnish build-up on their keys and posts, and in these cases we have to take a little closer look. There are many factors related to the development of tarnish and these factors can change from person to person. One of the factors revolves around the pH or acidic level of our skin. The normal acidic level on human skin is between 4.1-5.8*, which is somewhat acidic. A level of 7 is neutral. Our skin wants to be acidic to help fight off unwanted germs which is a good thing, but a bad thing for our oboes.

The pH levels will vary from person to person and these variances can be attributed to our race, medicines, medical conditions, soaps and topical leave-on products like cosmetics and lotions. Understanding our bodies physiology, all the products we come in contact with and the effects this has on our oboe is, to say the least, complicated!

So what are we to do with this information? We will keep it simple! We have always suggested to our clients to wash their hands right before playing to help keep their oboes clean in general. This will reduce food particles/residue and will also reduce the amount of natural acid, oils and perspiration from getting on the oboe. In turn, this will help reduce the chemical reaction of tarnish forming on your oboe keys and posts. If you use cosmetics, lotions, hair products, etc. and apply these products with your hands, wash your hands thoroughly before assembling your oboe.

Sometimes this is not enough. Many musicians performing in highly stressful conditions or in hot venues will tend to perspire continuously throughout their performance. Some musicians simply perspire a lot, no matter the performance conditions. In these circumstances, we recommend the musician keep an extra towel handy so they can wipe off their hands during a performance to keep their hands and oboe as clean as possible. If you are performing in a concert that has an intermission, make sure you go out and wash your hands again.
(Note: If you perform regularly with different dress codes, we recommend you go out and purchase different colored hand towels so they blend in with the environment better. Standard bathroom hand towels are usually available in multiple colors and are not too big or small to handle the task.)

Once you are finished playing, wash your hands again, if possible, before putting your oboe away. As you’re swabbing or feathering out your oboe, wipe it down again with a non-abrasive, lint free cloth to get any remaining fingerprints and perspiration off of the oboe.

If you do get tarnish, what can be done about it? In the pictures below, you will see a couple of different levels of tarnish. The light brown tarnish is fairly mild and can be hand polished off with a silver polish cloth. This can be done in part just by wiping the keys while they are on the oboe, but to have a complete polish, the oboe will need to be disassembled. Onks Woodwind can do this as part of an annual cleaning to make your oboe look and play better than new.

The dark black tarnish is very heavy tarnish and cannot be hand polished off. In these instances the oboe would have to be disassembled and the keys would have to be buffed with a powered motor. The keys on the oboe in this picture could mostly be buffed and shined up without replacing the pads since the heavy tarnish is not around the pad cups. Many oboes, however, get heavy tarnish all over the keys after years of usage and in that scenario, the oboe would require a full mechanical overhaul to remove the tarnish as a buffing machine would destroy the pads and corks.

In closing, your oboe will thank you if you take care to wash your hands and lightly wipe down the oboe after you play it.  Also take stock of the cosmetics and lotions you use as they can help promote tarnish as much as your natural physiology.  As always, if you have questions or concerns don’t hesitate to contact us.

 

*Please note we are not scientists.  We did refer to a physician who helped explain pH and provided the accompanying dermatological article.